After being baked in the sun, drenched by tropical showers, seeing her boat safely loaded onto a cargo ship (with all that that entails), Jaime continued her birthday celebrations by:
- Sweating around outside the Male International Airport waiting for a 9:30PM departure to Colombo (yes, Sri Lanka)
- Trying to sleep in Sri Lanka’s Bandaranaike International Airport while waiting for a 4:15AM departure to Abu Dhabi
- Being denied entry into Abu Dhabi due to a recent change to visa requirements
- Holed up in the warm luxurious embrace of an executive lounge in the Abu Dhabi International Airport hoping that the 12:50PM departure to Amman would be delayed
After all of this on April 15th we arrived in Amman by late afternoon. Our state of mind could be described as bewildered and numb, but we were still upright which should count for a great something after the 4 countries, 3 flights, 14 hours worth of layovers and at least 5 good quality airline/airport meals we survived. I’m sure it’s just how every girl dreams of spending their 33rd birthday.
Look at your atlas and find the Red Sea. If you squint at it hard enough it kind of looks like a big slug with two antennas at the northern end. If you follow that little deformed antennae on the right (also known as the Gulf of Aqaba) to the end you will find Jordan. About 6 million people call the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan home. Jordan’s interesting geographical position puts them right in the middle of a pretty tough neighborhood; they share borders with Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria, the West Bank, and Israel.
Fred Flintstone probably came from Petra, Jordan. There are loads of Greco-Roman ruins, the lowest point on earth (Dead Sea), and the spectacular Wadi Rum desert. Jordan could also be like Graceland for Old Testament fans; Moses, Jesus, the Israelites, and John the Baptiser were all said to have holidayed here.
We rubbed our eyes in the bright sunshine outside the airport with one hand and fended off taxi drivers with the other. Cab drivers are like cold and flu viruses, they like you best when you are tired and run down. One of our overriding travel strategies has been to get away from cab scrums to catch our breath, refer to a map, chat around to locals, and generally gather intel. When we feel a little more equipped we go and find the least interested cab the furthest away from the scrum and try our best to look as bored and apathetic as they are. Using this method we found our guy and eventually made it downtown and easily found a room at a place deceptively called Palace Hotel. It was cheap, we were tired, it would do. We showered up, changed our clothes, and hit the town when we were reminded how completely disorienting conventional travel is. Being shuttled between generic airports by generic aircraft eating generic meals might be as close to being in a coma that you can get while still being bothered with queues, officials and spiky haired knobs at ticket counters. Then you wake up and you are in downtown Amman trying to figure out the word for Donair in Arabic (turns out it’s Doner).
Amman has been continuously occupied since 3500 BC. Absorbing this level of time and history is something that growing up in North America doesn’t really prepare you for. Canada’s oldest continuous settlement only goes back about 400 years. Walking on, around, and through this kind of extreme antiquity would be one of the most memorable things about our first visit to the middle east. That’s what we were talking about over our mensaf that first night; the delicious local (Bedouin) dish which consists of rice, yoghurt and chicken. Somehow loads of hummus, olives, and pickled peppers made their way to our table and after all of that we were introduced to baklava (layers of phyllo pastry with butter, honey and almonds) accompanied quite nicely by tiny little cups of super hot and super strong Arabic coffee. The whole bill came in under 6 Dinars (less than 10 bucks) and remains one of the best meals we’ve had on the whole trip.
 16-Apr-2011 05:24, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.25 sec, ISO 320 |
Amman was called Philadelphia when the Roman’s came to town. After a boiled egg, cheese and bread for breakfast we set off to see what they left behind. There’s the second century theatre cut into the side of a hill that held 6000, the forum once one of the largest public squares in Rome, the Citadel and the pillars of the temple of Hercules which was constructed during the reign of Marcus Aurelius. What impressed us the most about these ruins is that they were built in, on, and around ruins that would have already been considered ancient back in the days when Marcus ruled the roost.
|
I wondered; when the Romans first wandered up here did they wonder at the same stones and statues that I was wondering at?
16-Apr-2011 20:45, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.0, 5.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80 |
Romans used the then ancient ruins as building rubble for their now ancient structures. Like histories’ leftover casserole; layers of civilization built, knocked down, and built up again. There’s a few 8500 year old statues there that a road crew dug up now widely considered the world’s oldest sculptures. Other several thousand year old carvings can be seen in the stonework on walls that date back a mere millennium.
|
All this traipsing around gawking at really old things led us to several cafes to top up on our new favorite pick-me-up’s; Arabic coffee and an assortment of baklava. Sessions that called for a more thoughtful contemplation of things were often accompanied by a nargileh (aka: shisha, hookah, water pipe, fancy bong) topped with some nice apple flavored tobacco. During one of these sessions we attempted reconciling ourselves to an organized tour for simplicities sake, we had a lot of ground to cover, a lot of things to see and not a lot of time. At one point we even put a deposit down somewhere but came to our senses soon afterward. It wasn’t too late to get our deposit back and we used it to rent a little white car and buy a cheap map. Sure, the engine stalled when you turned the air con up past 2, but so what? We were about to go on a road trip down the Kings Highway.
20-Apr-2011 03:13, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 80 |
The Trans-Canada highway was formally opened in 1962. The Kings Highway we were looking for was being used back in Numbers 20 verse 22. That’s old, Moses old. We picked it up south of Amman and enjoyed the crusader castles, biblical sites and Roman ruins at our own speed, which was slow. Our tiny French Citroen did a good job of keeping us from whizzing past the scenery too quickly, especially when the dust forced the windows up and we needed the air con.
|
Occasionally we would get lost and end up parked beside some ancient untold ruins and, besides the herds of goats, have the place entirely to ourselves. I bought a half chicken smothered with fries, olives, garlic yogurt and a coffee for 2 bucks. Jaime posed for pictures with the locals when they asked, which was at least 50 times. We stopped at every Arabic coffee shack we saw, and almost ended up in Iraq at one point. We passed countless Bedouin camps, stopped the car for their goat herds, took a picture of the sign beside the place they say Jesus was baptized, and pointed at a hill near the place they buried Moses (maybe). We followed the Jordan River to its destination which also happens to be the lowest point on earth.
17-Apr-2011 20:44, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.0, 5.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 80 |
The shores of the Dead Sea are over 400 meters below sea level. It’s very salty, more than 8 times saltier than the average ocean (over 30%). Salt builds up along the shore and encrusts the rocks. Cleopatra thought the mud did wonders for her skin, an enduring idea. Apparently people come today for all the typical spa services to things like psoriasis to cystic fibrosis. There are a few of these spas and resorts that are happy to let you swim in front of their little patch of beach for some absurd price, but if you drive along a few kilometers further you can avoid it all and have total privacy for free, which is what we did.
17-Apr-2011 00:52, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.0, 8.89mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 80 |
All of that salt makes the water very floaty. You can feel the effect just wading in up to your waist, and by the time your feet come off the ground it’s obvious that things are a little weird. You can actually walk through the water, completely upright with feet cycling around beneath you – like swimming in a standing position. Once you have mastered the swim walk you can get on with really important matters like taking a bunch of stupid pictures of each other reading books and stuff.
17-Apr-2011 02:24, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.0, 5.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 80 |
17-Apr-2011 02:10, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.0, 5.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80 |
17-Apr-2011 02:28, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.0, 5.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 80 |
We rinsed off with some bottled water that we brought along for the occasion, and hiked back up to the car. There were a two ambulance drivers there cooking up coffee with a little propane burner. They waved us over and rinsed out a couple of cups for us. They didn’t speak a single word of English but seemed to enjoy the company anyway. Before we left they were digging around in the back of the ambulance for some parting gifts. We tried to refuse, but they wouldn’t let us leave without taking a few packs of sterile surgical gauze and a box of latex gloves.
|
Our route took us through a shallow valley, through some beautiful canyon walls, and onto a plateau where we finally caught a glimpse of the massive 12th century Crusader fortress at Karak. After a night at the Castle Hotel next door we went for breakfast (the invariable boiled egg, cheese and bread) and explored the castle. It’s built out on a big precipice and totally dominates the small town below. Christian crusaders and Muslim armies like to duke it out here. Like every place we’ve stopped in Jordan there’s an incredible amount of history and if I went on describing it this post would never end. We did get to explore the whole thing for a dollar and once again were the only ones there.
17-Apr-2011 18:54, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 3.5, 5.0mm, 0.125 sec, ISO 200 |
That day we made our way to Petra (which means ‘stone’ in Greek). Petra was a 6th century Nabataean capital and unknown to the western world after it was accidentally ‘discovered’ by a Swiss explorer in 1812.
“…But rose-red as if the blush of dawn,
that first beheld them were not yet withdrawn;
The hues of youth upon a brow of woe,
which Man deemed old two thousand years ago,
match me such marvel save in Eastern clime,
a rose-red city half as old as time.”
-John William Burgon
|
You enter the ‘rose-red city’ through a dark narrow gorge called a ‘siq’ that winds through the sandstone for over a kilometre. Red rock walls tower above, and at some point the path between them is only a few meters wide. Irrigation channels carved right into the rock are visible, as are the occasional carving and small Fred Flintstone style building. This is all just build up, at the end of the siq you can see out through the gap and catch a glimpse of the most famous and most-photographed building in Petra, the Treasury.
|
A little further in where the valley opens up there is a massive amphitheatre carved right out of the hillside. We spent most of the day wandering around exploring the city. There’s a lot to see and as you can see from the pictures, it really is incredible.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
We kept moving south and through the vast landscape of Wadi Rum (see: TE Lawrence, and Lawrence of Arabia). The desert was really beautiful, but I didn’t really feel any need to go camp out in the sand with the Bedouins. We carried on to our last stop in Jordan, the seaside town of Aqaba located at the edge of the Gulf of Aqaba. We dropped the car off, rested up here for a day or two while planning our next move; getting into Egypt by ferry.
20-Apr-2011 01:34, OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP. u1030SW,S1030SW , 5.1, 18.2mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 80 |
Hi, I’m very concerned about you both, I think you have fallen out and can’t tell us all!!
Don’t worry, (If there is a God), Jaime is with Slapdash I will only be too happy to step in and replace you Seth (In every way – hehe!!)both Jamie and I will then pass information of our trip on to you to update the site and the world will be happy!!!
If for some reason God does not exist and Seth is with Slapdash, I will find the strength to step up and help you out Seth! we will then search, together for the Jaime’s of the Med!!!
I look forward to a reply enclosing air fair tickets to your destination!
With :-)
Rob
Posted by Rob Pennington | 24. Jul, 2011, 2:45 amOhhhh my. Lol. Ok Rob, if we ever break up you are TOTALLY the man (or woman) for the job. You are hired. Now we just have to get really sick of each other and have giant redneck white trash bust-up complete with throwing beer cans and small children. D’oh, no small children around. Well we’ll keep you in mind anyway.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:10 pmSo it looks like you guys are having a great time, but what I really want to know is when are you coming to Istanbul?!
Posted by Megan | 23. Jul, 2011, 1:07 amLoved Istanbul but are long gone by now. What a great city! Wish I would have picked up a water pipe and those cute little ceramic bowls. Ohhh I miss you Turkey. Having tea withdrawals.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:12 pmWhat the hell ? did you guys sink or what ?
Posted by jim | 30. Jun, 2011, 2:48 amOh I thought you said “stink”. Lol. We do in fact stink, no sinking allowed though.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:13 pmHAVE YOU 2 FALLEN OFF THE FACE OF THE EARTH. WHERE ARE YOU?? UPDATE SOON.
Posted by Sportcam | 27. Jun, 2011, 8:00 amFeels like it. Almost forgot how to comment on the website. Not a good sign. We’re in Greece now enjoying a little (ok a lot) of ouzo and gyros. Loverly. Catching up as I type this. Seth is hard at it. Complete with tongue sticking out side of mouth, brow knit with concentration. “Jaime, how do you spell towelette?” That really happened.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:15 pmSo, when does the Slap arrive and we get back to rebuilding complex systems with bone knives and bear skins.
Posted by Bob | 16. Jun, 2011, 8:20 amLOL. Awesome. This month we’re implementing our broken VHF antenna. It feeds wires through tight spaces with simultaneously killing cockroaches.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:17 pmGreat post.. I have not been in contact with you guys in a long long time.. But I am glad to see the adventure continues. Last I heard you both were in New Zealand. That was over a year and a half ago.. Our world tour was stopped short by the birth of our son, so I used my GI bill and went to marine survey school and got my master captain’s license. I now run my own company, but when things are better timed, I will continue on with “plan A.” Glad to see you two are doing so well! Carpe Diem and fair winds! Capt. John Banister, Suenos Azules Marine Surveying, Palm Beach Gardens, Florida – Owner of the Gemini 105Mc “Pura Vida” Hull number 709
Posted by Capt. John | 12. Jun, 2011, 1:12 pmCool! That’s what I just started. And where are these guys?
Posted by Bob | 01. Jul, 2011, 7:29 amGreat to hear from you John. We remember you so well! Good to hear that things are working out on your end of the world, congrats on the birth of your new son! Plan A will be waiting when you’re ready to rock.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:19 pmNo news for about a month. Getting worried about you guys. We are about to depart Darwin for Bali and leave Mind the Gap there for a month (any tips) – then fly to England for our son’s wedding. Enjoy your time off the boat
Posted by James & Lorna | 09. Jun, 2011, 6:52 pmSorry to send this so late. By this time you should be back aboard. I hope you guys had a great time back home for the wedding and are excited to get sailing again. I hope we get to catch you one more time before we “retire”. Happy sailing! Enjoy Bali!
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:21 pmGREAT STUFF! GREAT PICTURES. GREAT ADVENTURE! YOU TWO ARE SOOOO COOL!!!!
Posted by Tyler | 08. Jun, 2011, 10:07 amCool. Wow, that’s gotta be a first. I almost fell into the ocean while trying to jump from the dock to the boat…via the kayak. Not pretty. The pics on the other hand, yeah those are pretty cool. Seth has a good eye. And much better balance.
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:24 pmFantastic post. I’ve never wanted to visit the places you go, but after seeing things through your eyes, I am very jealous and want to follow in your footsteps. Safe travels, looking forward to the next update.
Posted by Mike R | 31. May, 2011, 10:31 amThanks so much Mike. I’d love to read about those footsteps one day in YOUR blog. Something to keep in mind…
Posted by theslapdash | 26. Jul, 2011, 10:25 pmI’ve just spent about an hour being inspired by your latest stories and photos! You must hear this all the time, but truly, the life path you two have chosen to follow is absolutely amazing. Love you guys…take care!! xoxo Leah McD
Posted by Leah | 20. May, 2011, 1:44 pmThanks Leah! That’s really cool of you to say. Hope we get to catch up to you one of these days again. Anytime you find yourself out here give us a buzz, there’s a cabin waiting.
Posted by Jaime | 27. May, 2011, 5:50 pmThe photos are stunning – National Geographic worthy!! But really, no camel spitting yet? Looking forward to the next installment:)
Posted by Brenda | 16. May, 2011, 3:32 amWOW! Thanks Bren! No camel spitting yet but Seth almost lost a finger to one. Do camels have rabbies? Miss you!
Posted by Jaime | 27. May, 2011, 5:52 pmNot a lurker, as I read your blog fron start to now in a couple of sessions. I’m looking forward to the book. Too bad you missed the Red Sea leg of the voyage, and the Suez, but, hey, better safe than sorry. As an ex-mil type, I think you made the right decision, good call. And nice write-up about Jordan. Well done.
Posted by Bob | 14. May, 2011, 11:42 amWe were disappointed too but we certainly got over it when we landed in Jordan without getting seasick. Maybe one day well get back there to claim that passage.
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 7:42 pmAbout McDonalds, do they have reserved parking for camels? Or do they Ride-Through? Inquiring minds……
Posted by Mom | 14. May, 2011, 3:16 amGrooooooan. It’s a good thing you’re cute and the best Momma in the world because that was a doozy. Seth is fearful that I’m on the same road to crazy. Is it a fun road? I think it may be kinda fun. But still, groooooan.
Posted by Jaime | 27. May, 2011, 5:54 pmWow, what amazing pictures! We’re sure we’ll never make it to Jordan so we love seeing this area of the world through your eyes. Looks like there’s a McDonalds everywhere!
Posted by Mid-Life Cruising! | 14. May, 2011, 2:02 amYou said it. Still hoping that Cuba holds out and doesn’t let McD in. I think it’s the last stronghold from that creepy clown, his purple alien friend, and that guy with the hamburger face.
Posted by Jaime | 27. May, 2011, 5:57 pmGreat post, guys! I’m going to have to put Jordan on my travel list. I love the sense of history – the crusader castle was amazing!
Posted by Greg Burnett | 13. May, 2011, 12:25 amDo it! You won’t regret it. Wish we had more time there.
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 7:58 pmWonderful posting! Great pictures and comments that illuminate the vast difference between hot, ancient, dusty countries and what we experience in North America.
Posted by J. Schieffelin | 12. May, 2011, 9:53 pmI can’t believe you didn’t show the picture of Jaime on a camel. I know you got one, we’ve been following you around for almost two years you know!
Posted by Ken Page | 12. May, 2011, 2:47 amAre you sitting down? …We didn’t ride a camel. No really. I know that sounds weird but I think we’re sort of afraid of them. One tried to bite Seth and it all went downhill from there.
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 8:16 pmThe scenery and the camels remind us of Egypt. Some of us loved the tremendous heat too. And soooo much history, it all makes our “life” in the West seem so unusual when compared to the rest of the world. We are again reminded of how freeing it is to travel to places like this without a schedule, with time to really enjoy and absorb the culture and the visual extravaganza. Wish we were there, good for you, enjoy. Dad
Posted by Ken | 11. May, 2011, 9:37 amVisual extravaganza. GOOD one. I hope I got some of your smarts since I seem to have got your nose. A good trade off I think. And Seth seems to like my pointy nose so all is well on that front too. XXOO
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 8:10 pmGreat post as usual guys. Glad there was no crazy boat-related drama to take away from the fun.
Mike
Posted by Mike | 11. May, 2011, 7:21 amAmen brothah.
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 8:11 pmReally beautiful pictures. Petra’s a bucket list destination for me and the spousal unit. I’m sure Egypt will be interesting as well. Hope you can get to St. Catherine’s.
Posted by jeff -another mckim | 11. May, 2011, 5:22 amJeff! How are you?? Yes Petra was awe-inspiring and you’re bucket list will be happy to have it on there, as you both will be when you make it out there. Enjoy a hookah in the bedouin cave and tea with the crazy lady near the ruined church.
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 8:13 pmGreat post as always but it seems to be missing something…maybe the gentle rantings of a sun baked lunatic handyman convinced his boat is destined for mechanical doomsday leaving him stranded in the middle of the ocean. Or perhaps it could be the soothing screams of the dodgy mistress convinced the perils of the sea would rather be on her lap.
But I digress…HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
Belated of course…
Posted by Kevin | 11. May, 2011, 4:58 amLOL! Exactly our thoughts. We’ll get back to our crazed rantings in no time don’t you worry. I KNEW we were missing something, couldn’t put my finger on it. LOVE your comment. One of my all-time favs.
Posted by Jaime | 30. May, 2011, 8:15 pmThanks! You just made my day!
I have noticed that while you are exceptionally skilled at detailing the major events in your epic voyage, you seem to be experiencing difficulty providing the smaller scraps of Slapdashery that us addicts now need to function in our daily lives.
Please consider this comment as application for the position of official Slapdash scribe. :)
Posted by Kevin | 22. Jul, 2011, 4:55 pm